Other browsers may use different terms but the procedure is basically the same.
Hardwood is the nicest and most attractive wood to use. More experienced scroll sawyers like to use walnut and mahogany for special projects. Purple heart and other exotic woods are used mainly for trim.
Inexpensive plywood like luan and fir are not good for most projects. However, high quality Baltic birch is often used for plaques and jig saw puzzles.
Some use it for making clocks and boxes. Two reasons to use Baltic birch are that it is less expensive and Scroll saw projects is much less likely to break. Be aware that the glue layers in plywood will dull your blade faster than sawing the same thickness in solid wood. When painting, we recommend plywood, it saves a lot of money over using hard wood.
Wood is cupping or warping?
The reason is moisture. One side dries more than the other side. You can keep turning it every few days or you could try to use a hair dryer or heat gun to dry one side. Put the thin wood under some heavier wood with spacers between the thin wood, for air drying.
Still you will have some cupping left when you are ready to scroll saw. When stack cutting I put the pieces together opposite from each other. When cutting out inside pieces, it will release the stretch in the wood.
They are very hard to control. They leave a lot of fuzz and leave a very wide kerf. The spiral blade is a regular blade with no reverse teeth that has been twisted around with teeth in all directions. This makes the blade go in any direction.
When cutting hardwood it wants to follow the grain and go to the soft spots in the wood making it very hard to control and stay on the line of the pattern. Most spiral blades are used for cutting plywood.
Plywood has no soft spots. They are good to cut faces of people and for free hand cutting, like cutting wild life. One more place people like to use them is for making a veining line wider. The best way to start is to take some scrap pieces of wood and draw some lines, steps, sharp angels and curving lines.
Try to stay on the line. Take it easy and slowly merge back to the line. On most patterns, if you get off the pattern line, nobody will notice and you are the only one that knows.
Most scroll saw blades will not cut a straight line, like you do on a band saw. The blade wants to veer off to the right you will notice that you have to push your wood to the left to stay on the line. This is due to a little burr on the right side of the blade, when in the saw.
Most people think that the blades are stamped. This is not true. However, there is still a burr, sometimes more or less.
A brand new cutter will leave less of a burr than one that is wearing out. Tension is very important. It is better to have too much tension than not enough. You will break more blades with not enough than too much tension. With not enough tension, you will push too hard into the blade.This intarsia lumber is the lumber created for the intarsia enthusiast!
It is FAS, kiln dried, and surfaced on 2 sides to 3/4 inch thickness. Our intarsia lumber is not sanded and comes in custom lengths, whereas 3/4" scroll saw wood is sanded and comes in 2ft.
sections. Minimum size is 1 foot in length. I purchased this product on the recommendation, of Steve Good from the Scroll Saw Workshop. My main use for this product, is scroll sawing and making diorama's.
I have made several projects, without any voids, or tear outs.
Many Original Scroll Saw Plans to Chose From. Mini Clock Patterns. This Beautiful Collection of 30 Mini Clock Patterns were Designed by: Scroll Saw Artist Dan Wilckens of Wilckens Woodworking. BIG BOOK OF SCROLL SAW WOODWORKING, from the editors of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts magazine, features more than 60 projects and techniques for fretwork, intarsia and other scroll saw crafts.
The projects include basic patterns for the beginner, unusual puzzles and toys, baskets and boxes, a chess set and keepsake portraits.4/5(1).
In this two-part tutorial series from the Scrollsaw Workshop, Steve Good discusses how to finish scrollsaw projects–a process which, according to Steve, includes four steps: gluing, sanding, beautifying and protecting.